Fiji Talk

Ok, so no blog posting yesterday. Why? We woke up at 3:30am to catch a boat to Taveuni, the third largest island in Fiji. Why 3:30, you ask? Well, we’re still not quite sure, but we think it’s because the captain had not officially registered his 15+ passenger boat with the correct authorities just yet, and we needed the cover of darkness to sneak into the port undetected. Safely on the island, we spent a relaxing day enjoying the change of scenery. Deborah tagged along with a new Mission group to the island’s main attraction, a grand waterfall (see photo) while Justin took a walk in the opposite direction to find a beach to relax on. Whether sitting on a beach near a luxurious hotel, or hiking through wild rainforests to swim in spectacular waterfalls, we found Taveuni to be a beautiful and relaxing place. In the early afternoon we went back to Natuvu in time for another small Meke in honor of the departure of the latest Mission group.


Today, however, was a bit more eventful. Here’s a quick synopsis:
1) Morning: Drive to Loa to talk to Malakai (who, apparently is NOT the headman… why are we finding this out now??) about his community’s health issues. We were told to meet him “after breakfast”, which to us meant 8:30. He was nowhere to be found, but after 30 minutes we found him. He was at his farm, of course. Apparently breakfast is at 9pm. AFTER breakfast is at 10pm. Fijian time. Oops!
2) Afternoon: Truckin’ it to the only white-sand beach within a 20km radius of Natuvu: collected a sand sample to test for suitability for potential SSF
3) First trip to Tucavesi to visit the regional medical clinic and talk to the staff doctor to get our first straight answers about the health issues facing the Buca Bay region (whoa, was THAT enlightening!)
4) In Buca to talk to Headman Asaeli about his community’s health issues
5) Evening: Drive a group of 4 women holding 4 new-borns , 1 pregnant woman, and two other women in the truck from Buca to Vunikura (a 30 minute drive trying not to jostle the sleeping new-borns!)

Somewhere in there we came to the frustrating realization that it’s REALLY hard to have a straight conversation with a Fijian. Here’s a typical exchange:

Us: We have some questions about your village’s water use.
Headman: Ok.
Us: Can you tell us who is responsible for the water system?
Headman: Yes.
Us: Yes, what?
Headman: Yes, I can tell you.
Us: Oh, ok. So, who is responsible for the water system?
Headman: There is a committee.
Us: Who is on the committee?
Headman: Me, my brother, my cousin, my uncle, and the Headman.
Us: Aren’t you the headman?
Headman: No. I am the Spokesman.
Us: Oh, this whole time we thought you were the Headman.
Spokesman: No, that is my brother.
Us: Your brother who is on the water committee?
Spokesman: My brother is not on the water committee.
Us: Isn’t the Headman on the water committee?
Spokesman: No. He isn’t on the water committee.
Us: Who, your brother, or the Headman?
Spokesman: My brother is the Headman.
Us: And is he on the water committee?
Spokesman: Ok.
Us: ????? (Looking at each other to see if the other understands… the other one doesn’t)

So the only way around this, we have discovered, is to ask the same questions to the same people, phrased slightly different, over and over again, until there is some semblance of consistency between answers. After 13 days in the region a small ray of understanding of how it all works here, is starting to shine on us. Hopefully the next week will bring some final clarity!